2 Equipment and Maintenance
By any measure, bullseye is not an
inexpensive sport. A quality rimfire pistol and .45 caliber gun can easily run
more than $2000. This high startup cost often intimidates beginners (and more
experience shooters, for that matter). In fact, the subject of advising
beginners on equipment comes up quite often on the list
The problem is this: the quality of your equipment places an upper bound on
your scores. If your gun is only capable of shooting a 5" group at 50 yards,
you'll never shoot a perfect score, no matter how good you are.
Beginners may not be able to shoot a perfect score, but many shooters improve
fast enough that they soon encounter the limitations of "entry-level" equipment.
Experienced shooters generally advise beginners to look into used guns,
especially for centerfire pistols. Buying a used bullseye gun from a shooter
that you know and trust can be an excellent way of getting quality equipment at
a relatively low price. Bullseye guns haven't changed a whole lot over time, so
a five or six year old gun (in good condition) won't necessarily put you at a
disadvantage.
This section contains some guidelines on choosing guns, sights and other
equipment.
2.1 Rimfire Pistols
2.1.1 What kind of rimfire pistols are suitable for bullseye?
The rules
for bullseye require the rimfire pistol to be of .22 caliber, have a trigger
pull of no less than 2 pounds, and a sight radius of no more than 10 inches. In
practice, the shooter wants a pistol that balances well, has a smooth trigger
pull, and will shoot a 10-shot group of 3" or less at 50 yards. There are
several .22 caliber pistols available that meet the basic criteria for bullseye.
The first group listed below are some of the lower-priced pistols that are
popular with bullseye shooters. They have retail prices from about $300 to $600
and make fine bullseye guns with little or no modification. It's difficult to
pick out one of these guns as the one choice for everybody; each gun has its
strengths and weaknesses. The best advice is to shoot as many of them as you can
and buy the one you like best.
- Beretta 87 Target
- A replacement for the mostly unlamented Model 89, the 87 features an integral
Weaver rail for easy mounting of optics.
- Browning Buckmark
- Gaining popularityin the past few years. Available in a wide
variety of finishes, barrel lengths and sight configurations. The "Bullseye"
Buckmark has a 7.25" fluted barrel and adjustable sights.
- High Standard Victor/Citation
- A classic bullseye .22. Great trigger and a grip that closely resembles
the 1911. Out of production for most of the 80s and 90s, the company has been
recently reincarnated in Houston, TX. Several listmembers have voiced their
complaints about the quality of product and customer service from the Houston
company. Information about older High Standard pistols is available from the
High Standard Collectors
Association
- Norinco TT Olympic
- Somewhat hard to find now since they are no longer imported, but some
shooters consider them excellent values. Inexpensive, lightweight and
accurate, but the trigger will probably require some attention before it's
suitable for competition.
- Ruger Mark II or
22/45
- Accurate enough out of the box, but the trigger generally leaves much to
be desired. Some people love the steep grip angle on the Mark II, others hate
it. Definitely a bargain if you like how it feels in your hand. The 22/45 has
the same action as the Mark II, with a polymer frame. The 22/45's grip angle
approximates a 1911's, which some people find more comfortable. Both are available
in various finishes and barrel lengths.
- Smith & Wesson Model 41
- Another traditional favorite. Available in two barrel lengths (5.5" and
7").The shorter barrel now comes drilled for optics mounts and is more
commonly seen on the line, probably because its greater weight provides better
balance. S&W recently switched to a Millett rear sight, which is generally
considered not as good as the older Smith micrometer sight. The Model 41 has
been in production for decades and many fine examples are available
secondhand.
The following list contains guns that were designed for
UIT (international) competition. They also happen to be perfectly suitable for
bullseye. They're all of European make, they are at least as accurate as the
guns listed above, and most of them are twice as expensive as their American
counterparts.
- Benelli MP90S/
MP95E
- The MP95E is a mid-range target pistol designed for the ISSF Standard
Pistol event. It features a steeply raked grip and forward balance but
no trigger adjustments other than overtravel. The MP90S is a higher-end
pistol with a fully adjustable trigger.
- Hämmerli 208s
- The 208s is considered by many shooters to be the ultimate bullseye .22.
Great balance, tack-driving accuracy and a fantastic two-stage trigger. The
downside is that the 208s has an uncertain future. Hämmerli is no longer making
receivers and is filling orders for the 208s based on what stock they have on hand. As of
August 2000 they are still available in the US.
- Hämmerli 280
- The 280 has its magazine well mounted forward of the trigger guard,
putting its balance well forward. While very accurate, some people accustomed
to "blue steel" are put off by its use of plastic and composites. Also
available in .32 S&W Long caliber. The 280 is out of production,
replaced by the SP20 in 1999. Some dealers have stock remaining.
- Hämmerli SP20
- The SP20 replaces both the 208s and 280. It is similar in configuration (mag well in
front of trigger guard) to the 280, but features a new recoil buffer system as
well as interchangable grips and barrel shrouds in various colors. Factory
scope mounts are available. Also available in .32 S&W Long caliber.
- SIG Trailside
- Originally imported into the US under the Hämmerli brand, the Trailside
is an entry-level competition pistol based on the 208 receiver. The most obvious
difference between this pistol and the higher
models is the lack of an adjustable trigger. Consumer feedback on the
Trailside is currently hard to come by.
- Walther KSP200/IZH-35M
- The IZH35 is a Russian-made standard pistol. While the finish is a bit
rough, it is quite accurate and has all the trigger adjustments one could
desire. The KSP 200 is essentially the same gun with fit-and-finish by
Walther. Both are available from Champion's Choice.
- Pardini SP
- Unique DES96U
- Walther GSP
2.1.2 Will I get a lot of benefit from a custom barrel on my .22?
All of
the rimfire pistols listed above meet the bullseye accuracy standard "as is."
With the right ammo, they should all group between 1" and 2" at 50 yards. Some
of them have weaknesses in other areas - triggers, for instance. But none of
them need custom barrels to improve their accuracy. However, custom barrels can
provide other features in addition to tighter groups. Some barrels have integral
scope mounts. Others are lighter or heavier than the factory standard, which
changes the balance of the pistol.
In short, a custom barrel probably won't magically improve your scores. But
it might make your pistol more comforable and improve your confidence, which
will allow you to shoot more 10s.
2.2 Centerfire pistols
2.2.1 Should I use a third gun for the centerfire stage?
Most
competitors shoot "double .45" - that is, they shoot the same pistol in the
centerfire and .45 phases of the match. There are several compelling reasons for
this, not the least of which is cost. It's much cheaper to buy and maintain one
pistol for both phases. Also, adding a third gun means another grip to learn and
another trigger to master. Many top shooters find that they get better results
by concentrating on the .45.
2.2.2 What kind of centerfire pistol should I use?
The rules allow any
centerfire pistol of .32 caliber or greater to be used in the centerfire phase.
Some shooters like the lower recoil of a smaller centerfire caliber and use a
third gun. The rules also allow a lighter trigger pull on a centerfire gun. Here
are some of the more common options:
- Smith & Wesson Model 52, 52-1, 52-2 (.38 Special)
- For decades, the predominant choice in the US for centerfire, but now out
of production. Repair parts (especially extractors) are now hard to find for
the 52 and 52-1. Accurate out of the box, great trigger, but somewhat
unforgiving of bad technique. Also picky about handloads.
- Custom 1911 in .38 Special or .38 Super
- Combines the familiarity of the 1911 with the reduced recoil of the .38
Spl or the accuracy of the .38 Super.
- Hämmerli SP20/Walther GSP/other euro-gun in .32 S&W Long
- Very popular in UIT competition, but some shooters find 50-yard accuracy
difficult to achieve. The usual comment is that you have to "follow through
all week" to acheive good results. The 280 is available with .22 and .32
conversion kits for the same receiver.
2.3 45 Caliber pistols
2.3.1 What kind of 45 caliber pistols are suitable for bullseye?
The
1911A1-pattern pistols dominate the line for bullseye. The high accuracy
potential and wealth of gunsmith expertise in modifying these guns make them an
easy choice for most shooters. The downside is that (with the possible exception
of the Kimber guns) there isn't a single 1911 that will meet the bullseye
accuracy standard out of the box. Even the "target" models such as the Colt Gold
Cup and Springfield Trophy Match do not claim to be able to shoot a 10-shot
group into 3" at 50 yards. Thus, nearly every bullseye shooter has a 1911 that
has been customized to some extent. At a bare minimum a 1911 will need to have
the slide-to-frame fit tightened, a match barrel and bushing fitted, adjustable
iron sights or an electronic dot sight mounted, and some trigger massaging by a
competent pistolsmith. This work easily adds several hundred dollars to the cost
of the gun, but is money very well spent.
If you're looking for a 1911 to use as a base for customization, here are
some hints.
- Get a blued or parkerized carbon steel gun rather than stainless steel.
Most gunsmiths will not do accuracy work on stainless guns, since the steel is
more brittle and much harder to fit. It's not impossible to accurize a
stainless gun, but it is harder to find a gunsmith who will work with it.
- Buy a basic gun. You're going to have a gunsmith turn it into a match gun,
so there's not much point in paying for doo-dads from the factory.
- Springfield and Colt guns make excellent bases for customization. The
Springfield usually gets the nod since it lacks the Colt's Series 80 firing
pin safety, which some feel interferes with a good trigger pull.
- If you know you're going to send the gun to a gunsmith, ask him what kind
of gun he prefers to work with.
For the shooter looking for an
out-of-the-box, "entry-level" .45, listmembers often make two recommendations:
get a Kimber, or buy a used bullseye gun. Bullseye-ready 1911s are never cheap,
but a used gun might get you a competition-ready gun with less "sticker shock."
Buying a used 1911 from a bullseye shooter is usually pretty safe, but it never
hurts to have the gun checked out by a pistolsmith before you put your money
down. If you're looking for a full-up "production custom" wadcutter gun or
service pistol, you should be sure to look at products from
Rock River Arms
(http://www.rockriverarms.com/) and
Les
Baer Custom (http://www.lesbaer.com/). The Les Baer guns are also available through
Champion's Choice. The main
advantage of this kind of gun over a custom gun is (usually) quicker delivery
time. They are not much cheaper than a made-to-order gun.
2.3.2 Is a 6" slide/barrel better for the 1911 than the standard 5" barrel?
A long barrel and/or slide on your 1911 will increase velocity and the added
weight may help with recoil management, but there's not much evidence to
suggest that the long barrel is more accurate at 50 yards.
2.3.3 Revolvers
A word about revolvers: the rules allow revolvers, and
some shooters today achieve master-class scores using wheelguns. One major
advantage is the lower price of admission; you can buy a stock revolver that
will shoot 3", 10-shot groups at 50 yards for less than half of what a custom
1911 might cost. Revolvers tend not to malfunction as much under match
conditions. However, thumb-cocking a revolver during sustained fire is rather
difficult to master and puts the inexperienced shooter at a disadvantage. Unless
you're a serious revolver addict you'll probably be better off with a
self-loader. The Smith & Wesson 625 and 25-2 (now out of production) are
popular choices for bullseye among revolver aficionados.
2.4 Service Pistols
This section covers pistols for use in EIC ("leg")
matches. The 1911 still dominates service pistol, but the M9 (Beretta 92FS) is
finding its way into more civilian hands. The Army Marksmanship Unit and Army
Reserve have used the M9 to great effect in the last couple of years.
2.4.1 Is my .45 legal for leg matches?
The service pistol rules do not
allow many external changes, cosmetic or otherwise. Basically the pistol must
visually resemble an "as-issued" sidearm. Internal modifications to improve
accuracy or function are allowed. The following modifications or features are
definitely LEGAL:
- Adjustable sights, high or low mount
- Match barrel and bushing
- Slide-to-frame fit tightened
- Ejection port lowered and flared
- Match trigger with overtravel stop and lightening holes, 4lb. minimum pull
weight
- Trigger shoe
- Stippled or checkered frontstrap and mainspring housing (flat or arched)
- Recoil buffers
Features or modifications on this list are
definitely ILLEGAL for use in leg matches:
- Rib or electronic dot sights
- Compensators or barrel porting
- Full-length recoil spring guide rods
- Barrel/slide lengths other than 5" (for 1911)
- High capacity receivers
- Extended thumb safeties, slide releases, or magazine releases
- Front cocking serrations on slide
- Beavertail grip safeties (to include the Springfield "High Hand Grip")
- Commander-style hammers
- Magazine well "funnels"
- Extended magazines
- Magazine base pads
2.4.2 Should I use an M1911 or an M9?
The US Army Marksmanship Unit has
recently achieved great success using the M9 (Beretta 92F for civilians) in leg
matches. MSG Steve Reiter of the Army Reserve team used an M9 to set a new
service pistol National Match Course record at the 1998 Interservice
Championships. The AMU gunsmiths worked long and hard to discover how to make
the Beretta into a match winner. For the most part, this expertise hasn't yet
found its way into the commercial gunsmith community. The Army team also
fabricates some of the parts it uses; obviously these aren't readily available
to the general public. For these reasons the average civilian shooter is
probably better off with a 1911 - parts and gunsmiths are much easier to come
by. There is one civilian gunsmith with a good reputation building Berettas. His
name is David Sams, and he is recently retired from the Army Marksmanship Unit.
He helped develop the AMU's M9 accurization program. You can reach him and his
wife Rhonda at RMRSDES78@prodigy.net
or through the Sams Custom Gunworks website at http://pages.prodigy.net/rmrsdes78/.
2.4.3 What kind of ammo should I use?
Service pistol rules allow "any
safe ammunition" using a 230-grain FMJRN bullet for .45, and a 115-grain or
124-grain FMJRN bullet for 9mm. This includes GI, commercial and handloaded
ammunition. Before 1998, the rules allowed commercial or GI ammunition only. In
1998, the Civilian Marksmanship Program
changed the rules to allow handloaded ammunition. This change is controversial,
as many shooters feel that it reduces the difficulty of the match by allowing
the use of low velocity loads, tailored to the individual gun. The CMP hasn't
been very forthcoming with its reasons for changing the rules. Many shooters
speculate that the Army's use of custom-loaded Black Hills and Atlanta Arms 9mm
ammunition had a lot to do with it (see below).
As with any other situation, the best solution is to get your hands on a
bunch of different kinds of ammunition and test them in your gun, then compete
with the type that yields the best results. For .45, Federal Match is a good
starting point. The Beretta is a special case. Apparently most 9mm ammo is
supersonic at the muzzle, then slows through the sound barrier somewhere between
25 and 50 yards. The bullet is buffeted by the passing shock wave and its path
is disrupted, opening up the group at 50 yards. To combat this problem the Army
uses a cartridge from Black Hills Ammunition that has a subsonic muzzle
velocity. As of 1998 the Army has switched to a load from Atlanta Arms. This
ammo is commercially available and is probably your best bet if you plan on
shooting a Beretta.
2.5 Sighting systems
The conventional pistol rules allow any kind of
sight except those that project an image on the target (such as laser sights).
This includes iron sights, electronic dot sights, and optics.
As with all other shooting sports, bullseye has been greatly affected by the
introduction of electronic dot sights. These sights resemble a conventional
scope in external appearance. Instead of a crosshair or other reticle, a small
fiber optic module projects a glowing dot onto the center of the lens. The
shooter merely centers this dot on the aiming black and gently squeezes the
trigger.
2.5.1 Should I use iron sights or an electronic dot?
Many shooters find
that dot sights are very easy to use. The glowing red dot is very easy to see
against the aiming black, and the human eye is very good at centering the dot.
This is good news for shooters with poor vision. Just about everybody thinks
that the high contrast is especially nice indoors, where poor lighting often
makes iron sights hard to see. Putting the dot on the target is also easier than
lining up a front and rear sight.
For better or worse, the dot also reveals the wobble that all shooters have.
Though you may appear rock-steady with iron sights, the dot will show that your
point of aim is dancing around. Some shooters find this distracting, but it can
be a useful training tool. The bright dot is also more easily tracked through
recoil, making shot analysis much easier. Most shooters are much better at
calling shots when using a dot sight.
The dot does have its drawbacks. It requires battery power, so you run the
risk of having a battery die in the middle of a match. While that is allowed as
an alibi, forgetting to turn the dot on before a string is not. The sight adds
weight to the gun and changes its balance. And of course, they're not cheap -
prices start at about $100 and wander up to $250 or so. Iron sights are
relatively cheap, don't need batteries, and are much less likely to break or
malfunction during a match - not that the electronic sights are unreliable.
So which way should you go? Most shooters will recommend that you acquire dot
sights as soon as you can afford them. Just about every top bullseye shooter
today mounts dots on all guns. However, they're not legal for UIT international
competition or leg matches. If you want to use the same gun for bullseye and
either of those events, you may want to stick with iron sights. And if iron
sights appeal to your sense of tradition, challenge, or aesthetics, by all means
use them. Remember: the current national 2700 record and Camp Perry 2700 record
were set with iron sights.
2.5.2 What kind of iron sights should I use?
By far the most popular
sight is manufactured by Bo-Mar. Bo-Mar sights incorporate a simple and reliable
click-adjustment system and a square notch in the rear blade. They're available
for most popular bullseye guns, including the 1911, S&W 41, and Ruger Mark
II.
Some shooters like the added weight of a rib sight, which runs the full
length of the barrel and incorporates the front and rear sights. Bo-Mar makes
rib sights for 1911s, the S&W 41 and various revolvers; Aristocrat also
makes revolver ribs.
2.5.3 What kind of electronic dot should I use?
In terms of accuracy,
reliability and usability, the UltraDot represents one of the best bargains
around. The UltraDot has a uniformly round dot with variable brightness. It also
has very low parallax - a claim often made but seldom substantiated. See
listmember John Dreyer's
Competitive
Shooting Network for more technical info on the UltraDot. Best of all, it's
one of the cheapest dot sights available, with a price around $110. Until
recently the only strike against the UltraDot was its lack of click adjustments
for elevation and windage. As of late 1997 the UltraDot has click adjustments.
Other dot sights from Tasco, Aimpoint and Gilmore are fine for bullseye, but
don't offer any compelling advantages over the UltraDot. The extremely large
field-of-view offered by some of those sights is useful in action shooting but
isn't really a factor in conventional pistol. The 1" UltraDot works for most
bullseye applications; some people prefer the 30mm model for .45, since the
larger field of view makes it easier to track the dot during recoil.
The only dot sight that gets a universal thumbs-down is the UltraDot Patriot.
This was an attempt a couple of years ago at lightweight, ultra-low-cost version
of the UltraDot. Serious manufacturing problems doomed this model to commercial
failure. It's out of production now, so you can't pick one up off the shelf, but
be careful if you're looking for a used UltraDot.
2.5.4 What other options are there?
Some shooters favor the Burris
long-eye-relief scope, which comes with a dot reticle and no or 2X
magnification. The Burris is a normal scope so it doesn't require batteries.
However, it's much heavier than the average electronic dot sight. Some shooters
find the black dot hard to see against the aiming black of the target.
2.5.5 How should I mount my scope/dot to my gun?
For most .22 semiautos
and centerfire revolvers, the barrel mount is the primary method of mounting a
dot sight or optics. The fixed barrel provides an excellent surface for mounting
a scope. Some guns come from the factory drilled and tapped to accept a scope
mount.
Centerfire semiautos have three major mounting options: grip mount, frame
mount and slide mount. The grip mount replaces one of the grip panels on the gun
and requires minimal modification of the gun - at most, a couple of holes are
drilled and tapped to fix the grip to the frame. The downside is that the grip
mount places the sight very high above the gun, requiring a somewhat awkward
wrist angle. These mounts generally don't return to zero very well when they're
removed.
Frame mounts are very strong and are popular among action shooters. These
mounts attach to either side of the frame and then arch over the slide, forming
a "bridge" onto which the sight is mounted. These mounts generally don't need to
be removed when disassembling the gun, so they tend to hold zero pretty well.
However, these mounts can sometimes cause ejection problems since they partially
cover the ejection port. Frame mounts require drilling and tapping several holes
on each side of the frame, adding to the installation cost.
Slide mounts attach the sight directly to the slide of the pistol. The sight
cycles back and forth with the slide. Most scopes and dot sights can handle this
stress when used with relatively light bullseye loads, but using this
arrangement with major power loads would probably break the sight in relatively
short order. A slide mounted scope also adds considerable weight to the slide,
which will probably cause ejection malfunctions. You will probably need to
change your load, or your recoil spring, or both to restore proper function.
Shooters use all three of these mounting techniques for bullseye, with mostly
good results. One of the most popular 1911 setups among the top shooters is an
Ultra Dot with a slide mount.
2.6 Grip panels
One of the key ingredients in good shooting is a firm,
consistent grip. Grip panels obviously play a big part in that. There are all
sorts of options, from the relatively flat panels that come with most guns to
custom-made anatomically shaped grips.
2.6.1 What are the advantages of anatomic grips?
Anatomic grips, or grip
panels that are made to conform to the shape of the human hand, help some
shooters achieve a consistent grip. They are constructed so that the shooter's
hand grips the gun the same way every time. They also offer support for the
thumb, and sometimes include a guide for the trigger finger to aid in placement.
There are several different makers of grips. Some, such as Herrett, sell
mass-produced grips. Others (such as Fung and Vitarbo) make individual grips
from a photocopy or outline of the shooter's hand. Prices range from $50 to $150
or so, depending on features.
Grip preferences are highly personal. Some people gain a lot from custom
grips, others are comfortable with the factory grips. Even custom grips tend to
be a journey, rather than a destination. Unless you're fortunate enough to be
able to work with a gripmaker, you'll probably wind up taking a little bit of
wood off here, and putting a little putty there, until you're happy...for now.
Don't let that discourage you, it's just part of the adventure.
2.6.2 What grip configurations are legal?
The rules specify that the
grip (or any part of the gun) may not give support beyond the hand. No part of
the grip may encircle the hand. Rule 3.6 contains detailed information on grips.
2.7 Cleaning and lubrication
2.7.1 How often should I clean my gun?
Centerfire guns should be
cleaned every 200 rounds or so, especially if you're using bullets that leave
heavy lead or copper deposits in the bore. This is a field strip and clean only;
detail stripping can be performed much more infrequently.
Rimfire guns can usually go with a very long cleaning interval, if kept
properly lubricated. Some shooters wait until their .22 malfunctions to strip it
down and clean it.
2.7.2 How should I clean my gun?
In a word...carefully! Improper
cleaning can damage the gun and ruin its accuracy. The bore and crown of the
barrel are particularly vulnerable - it's a good idea to always insert the
cleaning rod from the chamber end of the barrel.
A complete cleaning regimen is outside the scope of this FAQ. There are any
number of perfectly acceptable ways to clean a gun. Here are a few ground rules:
- Take care not to damage the gun during cleaning. Be very careful to keep
the cleaning rod from touching the surface of the bore.
- Pay special attention to the areas where metal rubs on metal. Be sure to
thoroughly scrub the frame and slide rails, barrel lugs and slide locking
recesses, and bushing.
- Fouling tends to hide in corners and crevices. Use toothpicks or other
soft, pointed implements to remove dirt from hard to reach places.
2.7.3 What kind of lubricant should I use?
Just about any commercial gun
lubricant is adequate, though shooters tend to have strongly held opinions about
various brands. RemOil, BreakFree, Snake Oil, FP-10, and TetraGun will all work
just fine. Thinner lubricants such as SnakeOil and FP-10 may be more appropriate
for cold temperatures. Lightweight synthetic motor oil may also be a good
lubricant.
2.7.4 What is "Ed's Red?"
"Ed's Red" is a solvent cocktail developed by
Ed Harris and based on a recipe from Hatcher's Notebook. You can find the recipe
at
http://www.prairienet.org/guns/use/edred.htm.
Other lubricant cocktail recipes go under the names of Ed's Red, Slick Red
Stuff, Snail Snot, etc. Most of these involve Marvel Mystery Oil, Hoppe's #9,
and ATF in varying proportions. They probably aren't any better or worse than
commercial lubricants, just unique.
2.8 Mechanical issues
2.8.1 Can I dry fire my gun?
Yes...in fact, dry fire is an excellent
practice technique. Most (if not all) centerfire guns can by dry-fired without
snap caps. Rimfire guns need some kind of dry fire plug. Never dry fire a .22
without a plug or empty brass in the chamber. If you do, you run the risk of
peening the firing pin or the barrel face, which will lead to malfunctions.
2.8.2 How should I drop the slide on my 1911?
Here's one accepted method
of loading a 1911 during a match. It is by no means the only way to do things.
The starting configuration is gun empty with slide locked back.
- Insert a loaded magazine.
- Place your right thumb on the hammer spur, holding the hammer back.
- Depress the grip safety with your left thumb.
- Depress the trigger with your right index finger.
- Drop the slide by depressing the slide release with your left thumb.
- Place your left thumb between the hammer and firing pin.
- Carefully release your right thumb, keeping your left thumb in place.
- Remove your right index finger from the trigger.
- Slowly remove your left thumb. Make sure the sear has engaged the hammer.
This technique is designed to prevent accidental discharges caused by
the hammer following the slide when it is dropped. It also aims to preserve the
trigger job by disconnecting the trigger from the sear while the slide is in
motion. It is not mandatory, but it is highly suggested for safety reasons. In
any case, always make sure the muzzle is pointed at the backstop when loading.
This topic generated quite a bit of heat on the list. Some feel that holding
the trigger while dropping the slide is absolutely necessary to preserve the
trigger job, while holding the hammer doesn't do anything. Others felt that
holding the trigger will do nothing for the trigger job but holding the hammer
is an important safety measure. Your mileage may vary, but the one rule to
remember is always keep the muzzle pointed at the backstop when
loading.
2.9 Other equipment
Guns and ammo are just the start. There are a few
other items that you might want or need when you go to a match.
2.9.1 Gun boxes vs. range bags
Most bullseye shooters carry their
equipment in some sort of purpose-built box. These boxes generally have a
pull-out tray holding 3 to 5 guns and storage space for ammunition, cleaning
supplies and other necessities. Pachmayr and Gun-Ho make bullseye boxes; some
shooters make their own from plywood or sheet metal. All boxes tend to be heavy
and somewhat bulky.
Range bags usually have several pockets for organizing, and a well-padded
probably protects guns as well as a box. They're also much lighter than a box .
However, they're not very good for mounting spotting scopes, which most
competitors consider essential. Which brings us to our next section...
2.9.2 Spotting scopes - selection and use
.22 caliber holes are awfully
hard to see at 25 yards, and invisible to most human eyes at 50 yards. Virtually
all bullseye shooters have some sort of spotting scope to help them see hits on
distant targets. The scope provides vital information; it allows you to see if
your zero is correct, and it allows you to confirm that your shot landed where
you think it did. More on using the scope later.
The ideal bullseye spotting scope is compact and lightweight while being
bright enough to see those tiny .22 hits out at 50 yards. It also has a field of
view wide enough to see most or all of the target at that distance. In practice
this works out to a magnification of 20X to 25X with a 40mm to 60mm objective
lens. Several scope manufacturers have products to meet these requirements.
Prices range from under $100 to just over $200. Here are a few popular options:
- Bushnell Competitor
- Inexpensive, small and lightweight, but not as bright or clear as the
other scopes
- Bushnell Spacemaster
- A big step up from the Competitor in quality and cost. 60mm objective
makes it very bright, but also adds to weight and bulk.
- Kowa TS-9B/TS-9C (50mm)
- These replace the much-loved TS-9. The 9B is a 45 degree-offset scope
small enough to fit conveniently in a pistol box. The 9C is a straight-through
design. Both scopes feature excellent optics. The new scopes sport a
rubberized finish and small focus knob, as opposed to the TS-9s wrinkle-paint
finish and large focusing ring.
- Unitron 304-S (20x50mm)
- No longer imported to the United States but possibly available secondhand
in the states or new elsewhere in the world. Its eyepiece has a 90° range of
offset adjustment.
Use of the scope: some shooters scope every slow fire shot, verifying the
calls. Others scope only the first few shots, to verify zero. What's right for
you depends on your confidence in your zero and your ability to control your
emotions. If you get nervous when you look through the scope and see five tight
shots, maybe you should only scope the first couple. If you can look through the
scope, see what you need to see, then forget it and concentrate on the next
shot, you'll probably be OK scoping every shot.
2.9.3 Miscellaneous checklist items
Here are some other things you may
want to have on your personal checklist:
- Hearing protection
- Wrenches/screwdrivers
- Lubricant
- Score book
- Clipboard
- Pen and pencil
- Scoring overlays
- Cleaning kit
- Classification, NRA, and state association membership cards