Bullseye-l FAQ Section 3 - Ammunition and Reloading

3 Ammunition and Reloading

A match gun is only as good as its ammunition. Finding (or creating) the right ammunition for your gun is an important step in realizing the gun's potential for accuracy.

Please read this paragraph carefully; you use the reloading data in this section at your own risk. I have checked the loads against various reloading manuals, and they appear to be appropriate, but I have not personally tested all of them. Always confirm any load with data from a reloading manual before you use it. Because I have no control over your reloading equipment, components, or technique (all of which are critical to safe reloading), I cannot guarantee the load data in this document. I specifically disclaim any and all liability for damages of any kind that may result from using information contained in this section.

I'm sorry I had to include that, but as Carrol Smith (author of several authoritative auto racing books) says, "I"m offended that I have to say this, but I would be more offended by being sued."

3.1 What kind of ammo should I use in my .22/CF/.45?

The general answer is "shoot ammo that goes bang every time and groups well in your gun." A more specific answer to this general question is very difficult, since each gun is unique. What shoots well in your gun may not be the best choice for another gun of the same make. One lot of Brand X may shoot very well, but another lot of the same brand may not. Price does not always guarantee accuracy or reliability. Rimfire pistols seem to be exceptionally finicky in this regard. Listmember Marcus Chang wrote:

With all the talk on The List about how fantastic CCI Standard Velocity is, I ordered a case to replce the Winchester T22 I'm running out of. Last Thursday I shot league with it and dropped 25 points off my average NMC. Not that I haven't done that with T22, but I figured I'd bench-rest it, just to see where it was shooting.
Well, I shot a 1-3/4" group. At 50 feet. Off a Hoppes pistol rest. I thought, "Oh, sh_t, somethings' wrong with my gun (a S&W 41 with 6-lb.sspring)."
Then something made be shoot some T22. One hole group. Unwilling to accept this outcome, I shot some more CCI. 1-2/3" group. Then I thought, "Oh, sh_t, I got the one bad case of CCI SV they made." But something made me shoot some of the CCI through my Norinco TT Olympic knock-off, which was tested with CCI SV. One hole, a ragged .45 caliber.
Still unable to accept this outcome, I swapped a heavier recoil spring into my 41 and shot some CCI SV again. 1.4" group.
Weird.
Moral of the story: Test your ammo in your gun. When you try any new ammo, or even a new lot of old your brand, test it. Just because it shoots one-hole groups out of your buddy's gun that's identical to your gun doesn't mean it'll work in yours.

Experimentation is the order of the day. Get your hands on as many different kinds of ammo as you can afford, and test them all in your gun. With that said, here are some cheaper varieties of rimfire ammo that are popular among bullseye shooters:

CCI Standard Velocity: Relatively cheap, accurate, and reliable in a wide variety of guns.
Federal 711 Target: Another budget favorite. S&W 41 shooters may want to stay away from this one; many 41 shooters have reported extraction problems with Federal 711.
RWS Target: A bit more expensive than the domestic ammo mentioned above, but quality is top notch.

Some brands to watch: Winchester T22 is accurate but many shooters find it unreliable. The same goes for Remington Target. PMC Target also has quality control problems. The newer Mexican-made PMC Scoremaster tends to be much more reliable than the Korean-made ammo sold under the PMC label.

For centerfire ammo, Federal Match seems to be the choice for both .38 Special and .45 ACP. Lapua and Fiocchi make excellent .32 S&W Long ammunition.

3.2 Do I have to reload if I want to shoot bullseye?

You don't have to, but chances are good that you'll want to if you shoot bullseye for any length of time. One reason is economic. Match ammunition is expensive; $20 is a pretty good starting point for a box of 50 rounds of .45 ACP match ammo. If you shoot double .45 in a 2700 match, you'll need four boxes to cover the CF and 45 phases, plus a little reserve for alibis. Most shooters quail at the thought of spending $80 on ammunition for a single match. Reloading can help reduce those costs, or at least give you more ammo for the same amount of money. Reloading typically costs from $0.05 to $0.20 per round (for .45 ACP), depending on component selection and how many times you re-use your brass. This puts the cost of a 50-round box somewhere between $2.50 and $10.00, which looks pretty good compared to factory match ammo.

Reloading can also help you realize your gun's potential. Each match gun is a unique, finely fitted machine with unique tastes in ammunition. Reloaders can vary powder charges and change bullet seating depths and crimp diameters, all of which will affect a load's performance. With enough experimentation you can find the load that extracts maximum accuracy from your pistol.

3.3 I want to start reloading, what kind of press should I buy?

This section discusses the merits of various kinds of reloading presses. It is not a "how-to" on reloading. If you're looking for an introduction to reloading, try the rec.guns FAQ or the book "The ABCs of Reloading" by Dean Grinnell, published by DBI Books. If you are a beginning reloader, you should definitely seek out an experienced friend to help you get started.

When selecting a press you need to consider several things. First, think realistically about how much reloading you'll be doing. If you're only going to reload 200-400 rounds a month, you may be able to get by with a single-stage press. If you're planning on reloading much more than that, you may be happier with a progressive. Progressives are much faster - an experienced user can load 500 rounds or more in an hour with a progressive, versus 100-200 rounds with a single-stage press. Progressives are also capable of producing match-quality ammunition, just like a single stage. Some people recommend that beginning reloaders start with a single-stage press, due to the greater simplicity of the machine. Others (including the FAQ maintainer) started reloading on progressives and had no problems mastering the process.

Next, think about your budget. A single-stage press and associated equipment (scale, powder measure, dies, etc.) can be had for around $200. Reloading setups based on a progressive press start at a little more than twice that cost. Equipping yourself for new calibers is also more expensive with progressive presses. The extra money buys you convenience in changing calibers, as well as the previously mentioned speed of production.

If you've settled on a single-stage press, RCBS and Hornady make presses that you'll want to consider. The RCBS "Rock Chucker" is a very durable press that can be made into a progressive with the addition of the "Piggyback" kit. The Hornady "Lock-n-Load" presses, introduced last year, incorporate a bushing system that eliminates the need to repeatedly adjust dies when they are inserted into the press. This eliminates some of the tedium associated with single-stage presses. These are just a couple of the more popular options; there are probably more than a dozen single-stage presses available from various manufacturers.

If you're interested in a progressive press, the market offers another set of options. Hornady manufactures a progressive Lock-n-Load press, which features the same bushing system as the single stage press. Lee manufactures some low-priced progressives, but some owners have had serious reliability problems with those machines.

You may have already heard of Dillon Precision's products. Dillon's line of progressive presses is very popular with all varieties of shooters and may be the most popular progressive reloaders, period. While they are expensive, they are also very durable and reliable. Dillon backs its products with a lifetime warranty. They don't hesitate to send out repair parts on demand, usually at no charge. Bullseye shooters use any and all of the Dillon models with great success. A discussion of the relative merits of the Dillon RL550B and RL650 machines is available at Geoff Beneze's Unofficial Dillon Q&A. The same site also offers a user evaluation of the Dillon Square Deal B.

3.3.1 What do I need in addition to a press? (sugg. by Michael Dane)

First of all, you need a place to put it! Reloading presses, especially progressives, require a sturdy mounting surface. All presses bolt to the table, so you'll need a workbench that you don't mind drilling holes in. You'll also need a couple of feet of working space and some storage for your components. Ideally you will locate your reloading area in a distraction-free room, away from telephones, TVs, or anything else that might compete for your attention. Your reloading area should also be safe for storing the flammable materials you'll use - no open flames or bare light bulbs, please.

Here are some mandatory accessories. The items in this list are essential for creating accurate pistol ammunition. This is by no means a comprehensive list of reloading accessories.

Reloading scale, calibrated in grains: You will use this scale to weigh the powder charge thrown by your powder measure. Balance beam scales and electronic scales are both accurate, but the electronic scales tend to be much faster and more convenient to use (in addition to being more expensive than the balance-beam type).
Reloading manual: This will supply you with load data for a variety of cartridges and will probably also contain reloading instructions. It's not a bad idea to have more than one reloading manual so you can cross-check load data.
Dial calipers, accurate to 0.001": Calipers are used for measuring overall length and crimp diameter, which are critical for safe and accurate reloading.

Here are some other "nice-to-have" accessories:

Chamber check gauge: This metal gauge has nominally the same dimensions as the chamber in your gun. Drop a loaded round into the gauge. If it goes all the way in using only your fingertip, it will most likely chamber in your gun. You can also chamber-check ammo by stripping the barrel out of your gun and dropping rounds into the chamber.
Ammo boxes: Useful for keeping your ammo organized, and safe.

3.3.2 What's a good (.32/.38/9mm/.45) bullseye load?

The conventional pistol rules do not specify a power factor or minimum velocity for ammunition. You can use any load that works well in your gun. In general you want enough velocity to spin-stabilize the bullet, but not so much that you have trouble handling the recoil during sustained fire.

Listmember George Anderson maintains a very detailed reloading page at http://www.durequip.com/temp/loads.htm.

The following tables contain a few loads used by listmembers. Again, always double-check the data contained here against a reloading manual before using it.

Loads for .32 S&W Long
Powder charge	Bullet	Notes
1.5-1.7gr Bullseye	95gr Cast LWC	Medium to Heavy roll crimp for use in Benelli MP95
1.7gr W231	98gr LWC	"Used by Don Nygord" - Bill Abernethy
1.7gr WST	Speer HBWC	Sub 2" groups at 50 yds in Hammerli 280
1.3gr VV N310	100gr LHBWC	Used at 25M only

38 caliber loads for S&W Model 52

Powder charge Bullet Notes

2.8-3.2gr AA#2 148gr LHBWC

2.7-2.8gr Bullseye 148gr LHBWC/LDEWC

2.5gr WST 148gr LHBWC

2.4gr Clays 148gr LHBWC

3.1gr W231 148gr LDEWC

3.0gr W231 148gr LHBWC Roll crimp, slide mount scope

38 caliber loads for S&W Model 52
Powder charge	Bullet	Notes
2.8-3.2gr AA#2	148gr LHBWC
2.7-2.8gr Bullseye	148gr LHBWC/LDEWC
2.5gr WST	148gr LHBWC
2.4gr Clays	148gr LHBWC
3.1gr W231	148gr LDEWC
3.0gr W231	148gr LHBWC	Roll crimp, slide mount scope

45 ACP loads for 1911-type pistols

Powder Bullet Notes

3.5-3.7gr Bullseye 185gr or 200gr LSWC Classic competition load

3.8gr Bullseye 200gr LSWC Slide mount scope

4.2gr WST 200gr LSWC Slide mount scope

4.5gr WST 200gr JSWC

4.6gr BE 185gr Nosler JHP

3.8-4.0gr VV N310 185gr Nosler JHP

3.7-4.0gr Clays 200gr LSWC 50 yard load

45 ACP loads for 1911-type pistols
Powder	Bullet	Notes
3.5-3.7gr Bullseye	185gr or 200gr LSWC	Classic competition load
3.8gr Bullseye	200gr LSWC	Slide mount scope
4.2gr WST	200gr LSWC	Slide mount scope
4.5gr WST	200gr JSWC
4.6gr BE	185gr Nosler JHP
3.8-4.0gr VV N310	185gr Nosler JHP
3.7-4.0gr Clays	200gr LSWC	50 yard load

3.3.3 How should I prepare my brass?

In general, brass preparation is not as important for pistol competition as it is for rifle competition. Bullseye gunsmith and master class shooter Ed Masaki put it this way:

I have been building 45 pistols for a long time for many shooters up to HI MASTERS. I always test the guns on a Ransom Rest out to 50 yards. With groups 1 1/2" to 3/4" center to center. I found out that brass does not make a difference in accuracy. I have used mixed and old brasses and they all shot the same groups. What makes the difference in accuracy is how well the pistol is put together, what barrels are used, what bullet and what type of powder is used.

Opinions vary a bit, but you don't need to spend time trimming brass, cleaning primer pockets, or any of that other stuff that rifle shooters do. Your brass should be clean and in good condition - always inspect for split necks, big dings in the wall or crushed rims, lest you blow yourself up. That's it. You don't even really need to sort by headstamp, if you don't want to. Most of us do, though.

3.3.4 What primer should I use?

All of the widely available primers - CCI, Federal and Winchester are the three most common - are perfectly fine. Federal "Match" primers are probably overkill for bullseye. It's a good idea to pick one brand and use it consistently, since switching primers will change the characteristics of your load. Winchester recently stopped nickel-plating their primers; the package says "improved sensitivity" but it sounds more like skipping a step to save money. Naturally, the price did not go down.

3.3.5 What bullet should I use?

Wadcutter and semi-wadcutter bullets are popular with bullseye shooters because these bullet shapes punch cleaner, rounder holes than round-nose bullets. Wadcutters are suitable for revolvers or semiautos designed specifically for that bullet shape (such as the S&W Model 52).

The Star brand swaged bullets are popular with many shooters. While they are softer than most cast bullets, the swaging process produces very consistent bullets. Several different brands of cast bullets are commonly used, including Bull-X, Magnus, and National Bullet Company.

Recently the Nosler 185gr Jacketed Hollowpoint has become very popular, especially for 50 yard shooting. The Marine Corps team began handloading this bullet in 1996 and achieved some impressive results. A few shooters have reported excellent luck with this bullet and a charge of VihtaVuori N310.

3.3.5.1 Noslers hang up in my Dillon press! What should I do?

Several listmembers have noticed that the standard Dillon seating die insert sometimes tilts the Nosler 185gr JHP bullet, ruining a round. The cheap solution is to fill the round-nose seating die insert with rifle stock bedding compound or epoxy, coat a Nosler with release agent and push it up into the epoxy to form the seating die to the shape of the bullet.

Redding also offers a competition seater that works well and offers very fine, repeatable seating depth adjustments.

3.3.6 Do I need to weight my bullets? (sugg. by Michael Dane)

Maybe. You definitely do not need to weigh jacketed bullets, since they seldom vary by more than a couple of tenths of a grain. You probably don't need to weigh swaged lead bullets, since those also tend to be very consistent. Some people weight cast lead bullets, and pick out the ones that vary from the claimed weight by more than a couple of grains. They then use the bullets that "made the grade" to shoot 50 yard slow fire.

Weighing bullets can be a very time consuming process, especially with a balance-beam scale. Unless you're a high-master shooter looking for that extra edge, your time would probably be better spent training. But if it gives you more confidence in your ammunition - and we all know how important that is - by all means, weigh away.

3.3.7 What powder should I use?

Up until a couple of years ago, two powders were used almost exclusively by bullseye shooters: Hercules Bullseye and Winchester 231. Bullseye is generally considered the more accurate of the two, but W231 burns much cleaner. These two powders are still widely used, but others have become popular with shooters in recent years. Some of these are Winchester Super Target (WST), Hodgdon Universal Clays, and Accurate Arms #2. Any of these powders are suitable for bullseye, and any of them might prove accurate in your gun.

3.4 How can I test ammunition in my gun?

You can test ammunition simply by resting the gun on a sandbag or using a specially designed pistol rest. This technique takes a bit of practice, but with persistence you can eliminate the majority of "human errors" and get a very good idea of the accuracy of your gun.

Machine rests actually grip the gun, eliminating most of the shooter's involvement. The operator stands behind the rest and usually depresses the trigger by means of a lever on the rest. When properly used, these rests can produce very good results. However, they cost around $300 and require a very sturdy mounting surface.

3.5 How should the Ransom rest be mounted and used?

The Ransom Rest is currently the most popular type of mechanical pistol rest. Listmember Peter Brown offered these instructions for proper use:

I've owned a Ransom Rest for several years. Here are some tips.

SAFETY ... NEVER stand directly behind OR over the gun / rest when firing. It may have a stop, but DO NOT bet your or anyone elses life on it. When your ball gun doubles, you'll know what I mean, mine did.
The post where it clamps down or bolts must be ABSOULTELY rigid.
I use 4 clamps. The Factory reqs. 3 or more.
The mounting clamps MUST be very tight. Make it hurt when you tighten them.
The slip clutch. Tighten about 2 to 3 turns tighter than factory.
With the gun in the rest, exercise the clutch by moving gun thru the full range of motion to loosen the clutch. Sometimes it sticks and does not give same resistance when it has been sitting for a length of time.
Tighten the inserts fairly HARD. Don't wimp on this one, squeeze the gun.
After you've done step #6, THEN aim the gun at the target, tighten clamps.
Drop the slide with the gun above the firing position and HOLD the hammer. It may slam fire or jar the sear off of the hammer. Be consistant.
Throw away the lever that is supplied by the factory that presses the trigger. Use your finger and press straight back smoothly. This will produce the best groups. This step WILL make a difference !!
Always watch all shots while being fired. Or get a friend to spot for you. This way you can spot several problems that may be caused by "exterior" forces. Use same magazine, watch 1st shot. Try hand loading each round. Use 2 different magazines, Shoot 4 shots change mags, gun doesn't "run dry". Not to mention varying the loads for best combination.
After a shot has been fired, press the gun back into firing position by using the level or rotating the gun holding assy. Do not touch the gun as this will disturb its' relationship with the inserts and the group may vary.
I cut index marks, every 90 degrees, in my elevation screw. This helps when making multiple tests on the same paper.
Buy the windage base. ..... I'm still saving money for this feature.

3.6 Should I use two loads, one for slow fire and another for timed/rapid?

Some shooters use separate loads for each distance. For the long line, they may use a bigger powder charge and/or more expensive jacketed bullet that is not necessary for timed and rapid fire. Reducing the powder charge for 25 yards also reduces recoil, which is a factor in sustained fire.

On the other hand, if a load is accurate at 50 yards it's certainly good enough for 25 yards. Using two loads might force you to stock two kinds of bullets and two varieties of powder. It will definitely cause you to change settings on your reloading press. If you think it's not worth the hassle, don't bother. But don't hesitate to try a different load for the short line, either.